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Roast chicken and super salads: Yotam Ottolenghi’s recipes for an alfresco feast

Apr 29, 2024

The secret to alfresco success is prep, so try this trio of make-ahead recipes for size: apricot-basted chicken with preserved lemon, plus sides of tomato and chickpea, and green beans and aïoli

Dining outdoors can be a joy, as long as everything comes together just so. You can’t control the elements, so it’s useful to be all over the food logistics, not least to give yourself some flexibility with regard to timings and applications. So, today, I have for you: a tray of roast vegetables that are as good straight from the oven as they are a few hours later, spooned out of a container; a bean salad that can be prepped a day ahead and dressed as and when you need it; and a whole roast chicken, happy to be served just as it is, or cold in a sandwich.

Substitute the apricots for another dried fruit, if you fancy – if it’s firm, just make sure you rehydrate it in boiling water first. Prepare the chicken in advance up to the point when it’s ready to go in the oven, then chill until you’re ready to cook (if you do this, take it out of the fridge an hour beforehand).

Prep 10 minCook 1 hr 10 minRest 30 minServes 6

1 x 1.4kg chickenFine sea salt and black pepper200g soft dried apricots1 tsp brown sugar 1½ preserved lemon (25g), flesh discarded, skin roughly chopped (15g net)2 tbsp dijon mustard1 tsp white-wine vinegar45ml olive oil1 tsp cumin seeds4 shallots, peeled, trimmed and halved lengthways (280g)10g fresh thyme sprigs

Heat the oven to 240C (220C fan)/475F/gas 9, and season the chicken inside and out with a teaspoon of salt, making sure you season under the skin over the legs and breasts, too.

Put the next seven ingredients in a small food processor with half a teaspoon of salt and a good grind of pepper, then blitz to a coarse paste. Put 90g of this paste in a small bowl and set aside, and rub the rest all over the chicken – apply a very thin layer on top of the skin and push the rest under the skin over the breasts and legs. Stuff two shallot halves and most of the thyme inside the cavity, then put the last sprig of thyme on top of the chicken breasts.

Put the remaining shallots in a large roasting pan, pop the chicken on top, then roast for 20 minutes, until the skin is golden and crisp. Take out of the oven and turn down the heat to 190C (170C fan)/375F/gas 5. Using an oven cloth, carefully tilt the pan and collect one and a half to two tablespoons of chicken fat, then stir this into the reserved apricot paste.

Spread all the remaining paste over the chicken’s breasts, then return the pan to the oven and roast for 35 minutes more, until the chicken is cooked through and the juices run clear.

Remove from the oven, leave to rest for 30 minutes, then serve straight from the pan with the pan juices spooned on top.

To my mind, this is an even more perfect summer side than a tomato salad. It can be made in the one tray, and pairs very well with crusty bread or pasta; in fact, it hits all the spots. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Prep 25 minCook 35 minServes 6

550g mixed tomatoes, large ones cut in half and small ones left whole 1 x 400g tin chickpeas, drained (reserve the liquid for today’s final recipe)7 garlic cloves, peeled 2-3 fennel bulbs (400g), trimmed, hard stems discarded, bulbs cut in half 30ml balsamic vinegar, ideally a Spanish pedro ximénez-based one – I used Sotaroni from Brindisa60ml olive oil 1½ tsp maple syrup Fine sea salt and black pepper 1¼ tsp fennel seeds, toasted and lightly ground 1 tsp chilli flakes

For the herb dressing 30g basil leaves20g flat-leaf parsley leaves75ml olive oil 15ml fresh lemon juice (ie, from 1 lemon)30g pitted black olives, finely chopped

Heat the oven to 240C (220C fan)/475F/gas 9. Put the tomatoes, chickpeas, garlic and fennel in a large roasting tray, drizzle over the vinegar, oil and maple syrup, then season with a teaspoon and a quarter of salt and a good grind of black pepper. Mix gently to coat, then arrange the tomatoes and fennel cut side up in the tray. Roast for 30 minutes, until soft and nicely charred in places.

Just before serving, make the dressing. Finely chop the herbs and put them in a medium bowl with the oil, lemon juice, olives, an eighth of a teaspoon of salt and plenty of black pepper. In a small bowl, mix the fennel seeds and chilli flakes, then stir half of them into the dressing. Spoon half the dressing over the cooked vegetables, sprinkle the rest of the fennel and chilli mixture on top, then serve with the remaining dressing in a bowl on the side.

The mixture of cooked and raw beans here makes this dish fall somewhere between a salad and a slaw – both of which are, of course, great additions to any summer lunch spread. I made the aïoli with leftover aquafaba from the fennel bake above, but if you don’t have any to hand, use shop-bought aquafaba or an egg yolk instead.

Prep 20 minCook 10 minServes 4-6

For the aïoli4 tsp aquafaba1 tsp white-wine vinegar1 tsp dijon mustard1 garlic clove, peeled and crushedFine sea salt and black pepper100ml olive oil

For the salad200g fine green beans, trimmed180g runner beans, trimmed, cut into three lengthways, then cut into 2mm-thin julienne strips60ml olive oil50g skin-on almonds1½ tsp coriander seeds150g sugar snap peas, cut lengthways into 3mm-thin strips150g mangetout, cut lengthways into 3mm-thin strips45g spring onions, trimmed and thinly sliced lengthways 10g tarragon, leaves picked1 lemon, skin peeled into 4 wide strips, then juiced, to get 2 tbsp

First make the aïoli. Put the aquafaba, vinegar, mustard, garlic, an eighth of a teaspoon of salt and a good grind of pepper in a small food processor and blitz for 10 seconds. With the motor still running, drizzle in the oil in a slow, steady stream until the mix emulsifies and takes on a mayonnaise-like consistency. Transfer to a small bowl, cover and set aside.

Bring a medium saucepan of well-salted water to a boil, drop in the fine beans and runner beans, and cook for two minutes, until the runner beans are tender and the fine beans still have a slight bite. Drain, refresh in plenty of cold or iced water until cool, then drain again and set aside.

Meanwhile, put the oil and almonds in a small pan and cook on a medium heat, stirring occasionally, for three to five minutes, until the nuts are golden all over. Remove with a slotted spoon, leave to cool a little, then roughly chop. Put the coriander seeds in the hot oil left in the pan, toast for 30 seconds, then take off the heat and set aside.

In a large bowl, mix all the salad ingredients, including the beans, with a quarter-teaspoon of salt. To serve, layer the salad and aïoli on a platter, marbling the aïoli through the vegetables, so some of them are well coated and some vivid green.

10 min1 hr 10 min30 min61 x 1.4kg chickenFine sea salt and black pepper200g soft dried apricots1 tsp brown sugar 1½ preserved lemon2 tbsp dijon mustard1 tsp white-wine vinegar45ml olive oil1 tsp cumin seeds4 shallots10g fresh thyme sprigs25 min35 min6550g mixed tomatoes1 x 400g tin chickpeas7 garlic cloves2-3 fennel bulbs30ml balsamic vinegar60ml olive oil 1½ tsp maple syrup Fine sea salt and black pepper1¼ tsp fennel seeds1 tsp chilli flakes30g basil leaves20g flat-leaf parsley leaves75ml olive oil 15ml fresh lemon juice30g pitted black olives20 min10 min4-64 tsp aquafaba1 tsp white-wine vinegar1 tsp dijon mustard1 garlic cloveFine sea salt and black pepper100ml olive oil200g fine green beans180g runner beans60ml olive oil50g skin-on almonds1½ tsp coriander seeds150g sugar snap peas150g mangetout45g spring onions10g tarragon1 lemon